Wednesday 31 August 2011

Touchdown: Almaty

Plane journeys in Central Asia are always sociable affairs: perhaps it is the fear of impending doom that draws the passengers together. That said, today's flight was, from a safety perspective at least, unremarkable. No one (not even the airhostesses) was smoking in the toilets and, as far as I could see and hear, no part of the plane fell off and on to the runway during takeoff. I would like to say this is indicative of the regional airlines' progress in matters of safety and customer service but, sadly, that would be an exaggeration. Air Astana remains the only Central Asian airline with a sufficient safety record to be allowed to fly in European airspace, and this monopoly is unlikely to be broken anytime soon.
I have travelled to Kazakhstan many times over the last few years but, bar one too-brief visit, I'm yet to explore the nation's economic and cultural capital as I would like. The city is, more often than not, imply somewhere to change planes en-route to somewhere more remote; such hasty visits cannot do it justice.
What strikes you first about Almaty is its superb location. Soaring, snow-capped peaks hold the city in their embrace; even as I write in late August the snow and ice continue to glisten, sparkling in the warm, bright sunshine.
Situated on the historic Silk Road, close to the borders of modern-day China, Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan, Almaty is inevitably a cultural melting pot and a trading and transport hub. Whilst the USSR held sway across the region, Almaty was the perfect site for a regional capital and thrived; after independence, however, proximity to other countries (especially China) was feared to be a double-edged sword and the government shifted north to the new city of Astana.
The political exodus has, fortunately, done little to harm Almaty's vibrancy. Many companies, embassies and educational institutions continue to have their headquarters there, and the temperate climate makes it a more pleasant place to live and work.

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