IN A NUTSHELL
Who hold Zam-Zammah, that 'fire-breathing dragon', hold the Punjab, for the great green-bronze piece is always first of the conqueror's loot.
Rudyard Kipling, Kim
Kipling’s most famous work opens outside Lahore Museum with his boy protagonist, Kim, illicitly straddling the giant cannon, Zam-Zammah. The city was Kipling’s own childhood stomping ground, and all those who read his picaresque novel cannot fail to be charmed by his evocative descriptions of Lahore.
Today the city is a bustling metropolis and Pakistan’s undisputed cultural capital. Two millennia of history compete for space with world-class cricket stadiums, brand new mosques and the city’s eponymous film industry: Lollywood. The city’s elite hangs out at the colonial era Country Club and brand new Oasis golf resort, whilst bright young things party the night away at secret nightclubs and underground raves.
GETTING THERE AND AROUND
Lahore’s Allama Iqbal International Airport is Pakistan’s second largest, and it is well connected to Europe and the Middle East. PIA also flies to Bangkok, Beijing and Tokyo, though these flights are a little less regular. Pakistan’s train network is a relic of the British but is still a cheap and relatively efficient way to get around the country.
Within Lahore, buses and auto-rickshaws are inexpensive, though the traffic is something to behold and you take your life in your hands by venturing out! Taxis are a little more pricey, and not always well maintained, but you’re guaranteed more personal space. Do not, however, expect a taxi driver to necessarily know his way around. Excitingly, a mass rapid transit system (MRT) is on the cards for Lahore, but it is unlikely to open before 2020.
5 PLUSES
1. Fantastic food
2. Well preserved historical buildings
3. Rich and accessible culture
4. Few other foreign tourists
5. English widely spoken
5 MINUSES
1. Over-population
2. Chaotic traffic
3. Sporadic security concerns
4. Smog
5. Pakistan is dry
10 MUST-SEES AND MUST-DOS
1. Shalimar Gardens: Lahore is known as the City of Gardens, and the Shalimar is undoubtedly its most famous. Laid out during the reign of Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan (r. 1628-58), the garden is on a north-south axis with three terraces, pavilions and baths, 410 fountains and a complex irrigation system. The garden is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
2. Food Street: Foodies flock to Gawal Mandi like mosquitos around a lamp. Pedestrianised after dark, numerous small cafes spill out tables and chairs onto the street, and serve a mouth-watering array of traditional Punjabi meals and snacks. Kebabs spitting on the open grills smell divine, whilst biryanis, fried fish and haleem (thick soup with lentils, meat and grain) are also perennial favourites
3. Anarkali: Lahore’s oldest bazaar, which sells traditional foods, embroideries and cloth, takes its name from a slave girl who was supposedly buried alive by Emperor Akbar for having an affair with his son (the future Jahangir). Her octagonal mausoleum is still here, and it is in Anarkali you will most likely catch a glimpse or hear the jingling bells of her modern counterparts, Lahore’s dancing girls.
4. Badshahi Mosque: The largest mosque in the world until 1986, the Badshahi was constructed in 1671 at the order of Emperor Aurangzeb. Each of the mosque’s four minarets is taller than the Taj Mahal, and it is capable of accommodating some 100,000 worshippers thanks to its vast sandstone courtyard. The mosque’s small museum contains relics of the Prophet Muhammed, his cousin Ali and his daughter Fatima. Exceptionally busy on Fridays.
5. Lahore Fort: Lahore’s other UNESCO World Heritage Site. Archaeologists have found remains from the 11th century AD within the grounds, but the current structure dates from the late 1500s. Of particular interest are the impressive Alamgiri Gate, the Naulakha Pavilion, and original wall paintings. Tip: watch a majestic sunset over the fort from the rooftop of Cooco’s restaurant (see below).
6. Minar-e Pakistan: This 92m high tower in Iqbal Park commemorates the Muslim League’s first request for an independent Pakistan back in 1940. Constructed from white marble, the minaret is engraved with Quranic verses, the text of the Lahore Resolution, Pakistan’s National Anthem, poetic couplets by Allama Iqbal, and excerpts from speeches by Muhammad Ali Jinnah, the founder of Pakistan.
7. Lahore Museum: This impressive red sandstone building on The Mall was the architectural centrepiece of colonial Lahore. Built in the so-called Mughal-Gothic style, Kipling’s father, John Lockwood Kipling, was its most famous curator. The collection includes Graeco-Buddhist sculptures, Hellenistic and Mughal coins, pottery and paintings as well, of course, as the infamous cannon, Zam-Zammah. Check out the virtual tour at www.lahoremuseum.org. 8. Data Darbar: One of the oldest shrines in the Indian Subcontinent, the Data Darbar houses the remains of the 11th century Sufi saint Abul Hassan Ali Hajvery. A popular pilgrimage site for both Muslims and Hindus prior to Partition, the shrine is particularly atmospheric during religious holidays when it is decorated with lights and food is served to hundreds of people, accompanied by the dulcet tones of Sufi singers and their instruments. Visitors of all religions are welcome to watch or join in the dancing.
9. Samadhi of Ranjit Singh: Known as the ‘Lion of the Punjab’, Ranjit Singh was crowned in 1801 as the leader of the Sikh Empire. A fierce and capable warrior, Ranjit Singh is best known for his patronage of the Golden Temple in Amritsar but also for annexing Kashmir. When he died in 1848, he was buried beneath this ornate tomb, his ashes encased in a lotus shaped urn. The pietra dura work in the marble pavilion is especially fine.
10. Wagah Border: 26km east of Lahore is the Indo-Pakistani border. Every day since 1959, Wagah has hosted an elaborate and nationalism-fuelled retreat ceremony, where soldiers from both sides compete to see who can shout loudest and goose step highest. Join the good-natured crowds of supporters, wave your flag, and chant until you are hoarse. Note that spectators on the Pakistani side are segregated by sex.
5 ESSENTIAL EATS
1. Cooco’s: A Lahore institution, this rooftop restaurant overlooks both the Badshahi Mosque and Lahore Fort. Owner Iqbal Hussain’s paintings and objet d’art provide plenty of food for thought, and hearty meals are winched up the outside of the building in an earthenware pot before serving. Get there early to guarantee a table and relax as you watch the sunset.
Roshnai Gate, Fort Rd
2. Bundu Khan: Ever popular (and now with a sister-branch in London), Bundu Khan serves up gloriously rich mutton in gravy, brain masala (far tastier than it sounds) and other spicy treats. Take away is available at lunchtime.
The Mall
3. Dumpukht: Named for the favoured cuisine of the Nawabs of Avadh, this is indeed a restaurant fit for a king! Delicately flavoured dishes such as the Raan-e-Dum Pukht (a leg of lamb marinated and stuffed with onions, cheese, and mint) are a pleasant change to the usual Punjabi dishes.
Pearl Continental Hotel, The Mall
4. Food Street: Follow your nose, grab a table wherever you can, and sink your teeth into divine mutton and chicken kebabs, washed down with a refreshing lassi (yoghurt drink) or Kashmiri tea.
Gowal Mandi, Anarkali
5. Iceberg: This American-style ice cream parlour offers the perfect retreat from the heat and chaos outside. There are 20+ flavours of ice cream and frozen yoghurt, and a bewildering array of sauces and toppings.
Allama Iqbal Rd
5 ESSENTIAL STAYS
1. Avari: Set back from The Mall, this award-winning hotel is surrounded by gorgeous and surprisingly peaceful gardens. Regularly rated as the best hotel in Pakistan, guests are warmly welcomed and have every amenity at their fingertips. Doubles from US $190 per night. The Mall. www.avari.com 2. Pearl Continental is a 500-room megalith with an impressive modern façade and atrium. Primarily used by business travellers and wedding parties, the hotel is pricy for Lahore but appropriately luxurious. Rates from US $190 per night. The Mall. www.pchotels.com 3. Park Plaza: A new addition to the chain, the Park Plaza is an archetypal international hotel with neutral décor and pleasant, English-speaking staff. The his and hers spas are an added bonus. Doubles from US $125 per night. MM Alam Rd. www.parkplaza.com 4. Hospitality Inn Lahore: Formerly the Holiday Inn, this conveniently located property has 120 immaculate rooms, five restaurants and cafes, and friendly, attentive staff. There is also a beauty salon and health club on site. Rates from US $110 per night. 26/26 Egerton Rd. www.hospitalityinnlahore.com 5. The Residency describes itself as the first boutique hotel in Lahore. What you’ll find is an imaginatively presented modern property with a slightly colonial feel. Staff are attentive to detail and security is reassuringly tight. Gulberg V. www.rh.com.pk
