Living the high life in Abu Dhabi and Dubai

The United Arab Emirates is a country of superlatives: everything has to be bigger, better and faster than anywhere else. Dubai and Abu Dhabi drip wealth from every angle, and if you have a little something to spend, there’s no more exciting place to do it. The world’s tallest building, man-made islands, snow in the desert, shopping and restaurants par excellence, and a striking natural environment are just a few of the features that pull in vast international crowds and keep them coming back for more.

 As late as the 1960s, the territories now belonging to the UAE were little more than desert. Pearl fishing was the principal industry, but even that was fading. And then they struck gold: black gold. In less than half a century, Abu Dhabi and Dubai have gone from being provincial backwaters to two of the wealthiest cities on the planet: their wealth has put them on the map, and evidence of that wealth is everywhere.  

The UAE is undoubtedly an assault on the senses and, for tourists at least, that necessitates being selective about what you see and do. The three structures known as the Burj Khalifa, The Palm Jumeirah and the Sheikh Zayed Mosque provide insight into the country’s core (if on the surface incompatible) values of innovation, indulgence, and faith, and consequently they’re great places to start.

The Burj Khalifa (www.burjkhalifa.ae) is perhaps better known as the world’s tallest building. Standing 829.84 m tall it is a masterpiece of engineering and a tasteful addition to Dubai’s skyline. Floors in the building went up at a rate of one every three days, the structure cost US $1.5 billion, and four men have even BASE jumped from the tower. It took 90 seconds to reach the ground. Visitors less inclined to suicide can speed to the top at 18m/sec in one of the 57 elevators, get a birds-eye view of the city from the outdoor observation deck (452m), or simply keep their feet on the ground and crane their necks to the sky whilst soaking up the ambience created by the photogenic Dubai Fountain.

Down on the coast, The Palm Jumeirah (www.palmjumeirah.ae) is an artificial archipelago stuffed with luxury hotels and villas. Atlantis is the beating heart of The Palm: beaches, pools and spas compete for attention with a 42-acre water park, dive centre and an 11.5 million litre aquarium with 65,000 fish. Meandering amongst the attractions you’ll also find outlets from the likes of Porsche, Tiffany & Co. and Cartier, whilst award-winning Nobu (www.noburestaurants.com/dubai) and other fine-dining options will keep you well-fed into the early hours.

120km away in Abu Dhabi, richest city on earth, the magnificent Sheikh Zayed Mosque (www.szgmc.ae/en) offers a temporary diversion from ostentatious consumerism. Zayed was the founding father of the UAE, and the mosque carrying his name can house more than 40,000 worshippers. With domes reminiscent of the Taj Mahal, the white marble walls and minarets are inlaid with gold, semi-precious stones and crystal. The mosque is as impressive by night as by day, and non-Muslims are welcome to visit on a guided tour as long as they are respectful and properly attired.

For the less sedate, the UAE has plenty to keep even the most dependent adrenalin junkie entertained. Despite the soaring summer temperatures, it is cool year round at Ski Dubai (www.skidxb.com), the first indoor ski resort in the Middle East, and the Olympic-sized Dubai Ice Rink in Dubai Mall (www.dubaiicerink.com). The latter hosts the annual Emirates Hockey League Cup and you can catch ice hockey matches there throughout the season.

Out of the cities the biggest attractions are somewhat sandy: camel safaris for wannabe Lawrence of Arabias, and dune bashing (or surfing) for lovers of speed.   The most popular destination for both these activities are in Abu Dhabi’s empty quarter – the Liwa Desert – and the area surrounding the picturesque Fossil Rock (AKA Camel Rock) in Dubai.

Bedouin still consider camels to be the Rolls Royces of the desert, even if Toyota Land Cruisers have now largely usurped them for long journeys across the sands.  Visitors dipping their toe in the proverbial water can ride for a few hours, taking a break for a traditional Arab meal, whilst the more determined can avail themselves of the variety of over-night camel safari packages. Accommodation is in luxury tents under the stars, and evening entertainment (a distraction from your saddle sores) includes belly dancing, henna painting and local music, enjoyed with an accompanying sheesha pipe. A night in the desert is your best chance to step back in time and experience Emirati life as it was before the oil came.

Today’s Emiratis have two loves: the desert and the car. Get used to seeing super cars shooting along the highways, and an impressive line-up of brand new Lamborghinis, Porsches and Maybachs outside every major hotel and restaurant. If you want to get behind the wheel in the desert, however, a Toyota Land Cruiser is the popular choice: it’s less likely to get stuck in the sand. A half day of dune bashing will set you back US $40-60 per person, and the exhilaration pulses from every part of your body as you race and slide through the desert. Most tour companies will take you into the desert as part of a group, and you follow a pre-determined circuit enabling you to try a variety of stunts without getting lost. Dune bashing should not be attempted in a standard vehicle: a roll cage is an essential modification that could save your life in the event of a roll over.

Back in the cities, there is plenty to do whilst you recover from the adrenalin hit and inevitable bruising. Keeping with the car theme, Ferrari World (www.ferrariworldabudhabi.com) is a stone’s throw from the Yas Marina Grand Prix circuit (www.yasmarinacircuit.com). The largest indoor amusement park in the world, Ferrari World covers 200,000 sqm and is home to the world’s fastest rollercoaster: Formula Rossa. Inside the building, which is modelled after the side profile of a Ferrari GT, you’ll find a gallery of Ferraris, a virtual tour inside the Ferrari factory, and a junior racing school with child-sized Ferrari F1 cars. Adults can enjoy state-of-the-art racing simulators, an interactive 3D show following the life of Ferrari engineers, and recreations of the skylines of famous Italian cities. Petrol heads in Dubai should check out Kartdrome at the Duabi Autodrome (www.dubaiautodrome.com/arrive-drive-2/) where you can fulfil your dreams as a racing driver for the day.

Abu Dhabi is already well on its way to becoming the cultural heart of the UAE and, in time, a global centre for the arts. The construction of Saadiyat Island (www.saadiyat.ae), 500m off the coast of Abu Dhabi, is already well under way. The Zayed National Museum, designed by Foster and Partners and developed with the expertise of the British Museum, will be the first major museum site to open on the island, followed swiftly by branches of the Louvre (due 2013) and the Guggenheim (due 2014). In the meantime, the Saadiyat Beach Golf Club is already up and running, with spectacular views across the Arabian Gulf.

Culture vultures in Dubai will not be disappointed either. The Art Bus (www.artinthecity.com) runs between museums, galleries and studios throughout the city during major art festivals and exhibitions. Many of these are located in Bastakiya (Old Dubai), where you can also find the Al Fahidi Fort. The mud fort was built in 1787 (making it the oldest building still standing in Dubai) and it now houses Dubai Museum. Life-size dioramas show various aspects of Emirati life, including recreations of a date farm, a Bedouin tent and pearl fishing, and there are also archaeological finds dating back to around 3000 BC.

Near to the fort is the Majlis Gallery (www.themajlisgallery.com), a traditional Arabic house with original wind towers that keep it cool. Whitewashed rooms around a large, open courtyard display temporary exhibitions by contemporary artists, and there are also high-quality artisanal works on sale: the handmade glass, fabrics and pottery are particularly good. Art lovers should also make time to check out the Meem Gallery (www.meem.ae) which features work from modern and contemporary Middle Eastern artists and is home to the Noor Library of Islamic Art, and the Mojo Gallery (www.themojogallery.com) with its focus on conceptual and digital arts. Mojo holds regular public workshops if you have an artistic flair.  

No visit to Dubai would be complete without a trip to the shops. The winter Dubai Shopping Festival (www.dubaishoppingfestival.com) and Dubai Summer Surprises (www.dubaievents.ae) are the best times to grab a bargain as many stores heavily discount their stock, but expect the malls to be packed. The undoubted queen of malls is Dubai Mall (www.thedubaimall.com), a veritable labyrinth of luxury brands, more affordable brands, restaurants and entertainment venues. The centrepiece of the mall (and an excellent place to leave children and husbands whilst you browse) is Dubai Aquarium. Shoppers can gawp at more than 33,000 fish and marine animals (including giant piranhas, catfish, otters and penguins), walk through the underwater viewing tunnel and, if so inclined, even take a dip in the tank.  

If the mere thought of the malls send you into a cold sweat but you still want to take home a few souvenirs, head into one of Dubai’s many markets and souks. Gold, spice and textile souks still line Dubai Creek and, when combined with a river ride in an historic dhow, offer a glimpse into a whole new side of the city. Gold and precious stones are sold by weight and quality but you’ll have to haggle hard if you want a bargain price. There is greater flexibility on the price of fabrics, particularly around Eid, but make sure you compare the quality and prices across a number of shops. If you fancy a tailor-made suit and have a few days to wait, this is also the place to come.

When night falls, the UAE wakes up and both Emiratis and expats come out to play. Malls and restaurants are open into the early hours, and bars and clubs rarely open before midnight. Alcohol is illegal for locals but available to foreigners providing they are over 21. Time Out (www.timeoutdubai.com) and the local media both advertise the latest hotpots and the constant stream of performances by international DJs, rock stars and pop starlets.  Celebrity guests can be spotted at new bar Cirque du Soir (www.cirquedusoir.com), where a cast of circus performers make for a glitzy and theatrical evening. Equally showy is the Ibiza-esque poolside Ikandy Bar (Sheikh Zayed Road) with its palm trees and perma-tanned guests and, for those slightly more sophisticated media types, Z:One (Dubai Media City) is a popular choice.

The UAE never sleeps, and neither do many of its guests. Whether you choose to spend your time on the beach, in the mall, or surrounded by shifting desert sands, you’ll have no trouble filling your days.  In a week in Dubai you can eat better, do more, sleep more luxuriantly and party harder than almost anywhere else on earth, providing the credit card keeps working. You may, however, need a break to get over the holiday.

PRACTICALITIES SIDEBAR

Getting there and around

Dubai is one of the best-connected airports in the world, so getting to the UAE is a breeze. Emirates flies direct to both Singapore (SGD 1290 return inc. taxes) and Hong Kong (SGD 1200 return inc. taxes) and Singaporean, Hong Kong and Malaysian nationals (amongst others) can get a visa on arrival for AED 100 (SGD 35).

Road infrastructure within the UAE is excellent, though the level of traffic can be a little unnerving for first-time visitors.  Car hire companies require tourists to have an international license and a valid credit card, and self-drive is undoubtedly the best way to travel on longer journeys. In the cities, taxis are reasonably priced (though not a give-away), buses are frequent and well-maintained, and Dubai has an excellent metro system. Public transport is cheap, safe and well-used by residents and visitors alike.

When to go

The UAE burns throughout July and August, with temperatures well above 40 Celsius. The air conditioning is effective and some hotels offer bargain prices, but even stepping outside is an exhausting experience and the desert is virtually a no-go area. The rest of the year sees pleasant temperatures, clear skies and little rain.

Shopaholics are drawn to the bargains on sale during Dubai Shopping Festival (5 January – 5 February 2012), camel and date festivals draw guests from across the Gulf in the winter months, and the Grand Prix at the Yas Marina circuit is the highlight of the sporting calendar.

Where to stay

The UAE has a hotel for every budget, but certainly favours the lavish. Atlantis the Palm (www.atlantisthepalm.com) and the Burj al Arab (www.jumeirah.com) are the biggest, flashiest names in Dubai, whilst the Desert Islands and Qasr al Sarab Desert Resorts (both www.anantara.com) pack a punch among the dunes of Abu Dhabi.

Mid-range options in downtown Dubai include the Rose Rayhaan on iconic Sheikh Zayed Road and the Amwaj Rotana at Jumeirah Beach (both www.rotana.com), and comfortable budget choices include the numerous Hotel Ibis in Dubai (www.ibishotel.com), the Mercure Centre Hotel in Abu Dhabi (www.accorhotels.com), and the Sharjah Rotana in Sharjah (also www.rotana.com).

Where to eat

Emirati cuisine is a fabulous fusion of global flavours: biryani may be the national dish but the Gulf also provides fantastic seafood, dried fruits and nuts, and wonderfully rich lamb dishes. Al Dahleez (Al Boom Tourist Village) and Al Hadheerah (Bab Al Shams Desert Resort) are famous for their Emirati dishes, Al Mahara (Burj al Arab) and Aquara (Dubai Marina Yacht Club) serve up wonderfully fresh fish, and the award-winning cakes and cappuccinos in Abu Dhabi’s Zyara (Madinat Zayed) are a must for a mid-afternoon repast.

Useful websites

www.timeoutdubai.com What’s on guide to Dubai

www.timeoutabudhabi.com What’s on guide to Abu Dhabi

www.uaeinteract.com News and information about the UAE

www.definitelydubai.com Tourism portal

www.abudhabitourism.ae

Seven Empires, Seven Cities: An Architectural Tour of Delhi

If you can't tick a monkey, a naked holy man and a cross-dressing hijra off your eye-spy list before lunchtime, you're probably not making the most of Delhi. India's sprawling capital seethes with every facet of humanity, and pulses with an energy drawn from millennia of life, death and reincarnation. 1200 heritage buildings and 175 monuments of national importance battle for space with skyscrapers, shopping malls and a futuristic metro, and swarming across it all are the 12.5 million inhabitants of this city that never sleeps. After seven years and several dozen trips, we can finally join them in calling Dilli our subcontinental home.

It is said that whoever builds a city in Delhi will lose it, and although this may not have been a heart-warming thought for the emperors in charge of its continuous construction, invasion, desecration and reconstruction, it is a boon for modern visitors: few cities in the world can boast over 2500 years of continual occupancy, or of such an incredible concentration of sites dating from each of the city's historic incarnations.

History buffs have much to get excited about in Delhi as the seven most recent cities (those built between the early medieval period and the present) remain part of the living, breathing metropolis. For a few hundred rupees (and often less), you can walk the corridors of power, experience places of worship little changed in a thousand years, and barter in bazaars that have operated day in, day out for centuries. Although the high-profile monuments have been extensively restored and are often crowded with package tourists, school groups and souvenir touts,  the vast majority of sites lie quiet, seemingly forgotten on roundabouts, in residential courtyards and between impromptu cricket pitches. It is in such places that you can best sit and reflect, taking a personal adventure into the past.  

Begin your architectural odyssey by taking the newly constructed and immaculately clean metro south to Qutb Minar (yellow line). Hidden amongst residential streets and small business units are what remains of Lal Kot (aka Qila Raj Pithora and the Qutb complex), the AD 11th century capital of Delhi's last Hindu kings, and the first architectural experiments of Delhi's Muslim Sultans. Three distinct items testify to their advanced technologies, engineering ability and sophisticated methods for projecting their political power and religious authority.

First is the apparently unremarkable iron pillar, seven metres high and a little over six tonnes in weight. Supposedly fashioned during the rule of Chandragupta Vikramaditya (AD 375-413), the pillar was the centre piece of a Jain temple and moved here some 700 years later. The pillar is made of 98% wrought iron (showing the skills of ancient blacksmiths), but despite 1600 years in the open air, it shows no sign of rust. It has left both archaeologists and metallurgists baffled.

Lal Kot housed a complex of 27 Hindu and Jain temples that were later recycled into the Quwwat-ul-Islam mosque, the first mosque to be built in Delhi after the Islamic conquest of India. What is particularly interesting given the general assumption that Islam prohibits figurative art is that many pieces of masonry still clearly depict agile youths and buxom women, albeit now weathered by age. The desecration of the original temples and their integration into the mosque was a very physical way of demonstrating to the public the arrival of a new political and religious power, and its ability to subjugate what had gone before.

The builders’ advanced engineering skills is seen in the Qutb Minar, the 72.5 m brick minaret at the centre of the complex. Built in stages from the 12th - 14th centuries AD, the Qutb Minar remains to this day the tallest brick-built minaret in the world. Modelled on the Minaret of Jam in Afghanistan, the tower has a diameter of over 14 m at its base, tapering elegantly to 2.75 m at the top. The tower is comprised of multiple cylindrical shafts of sandstone separated with balconies supported by decorative corbels. Its shape has enabled it to withstand multiple earthquakes with only limited restoration, most notably in AD 1505 and 1794. The tower's intended use is a matter of debate as although it is often referred to as a minaret and it overlooks the mosque, the tower is so tall that people on the ground cannot actually hear a muezzin calling from the top.

Three metro stops north of Qutb Minar in the modern suburb of Hauz Khas is Siri, the second city of Delhi and the first to be entirely constructed by Muslim rulers. Ala-uddin Khilji, an Afghan sultan, began constructing his fort in AD 1297 as a defence against Mongol invasions. The vast, fortified walls successfully kept enemies out, and the manmade reservoir (the "hauz" from which the modern suburb takes its name) enabled Khilji's supporters to weather the siege. When the Mongols finally retreated, Khilji's forces gave chase, captured their generals and brought them back to Siri to be trampled by elephants, decapitated and have their heads hung on the city walls. Legend has it that this is where Siri got its name: in Hindi, "siri" means head.       

Today Siri is one of the quietest of Delhi's major sites. Red sandstone walls and impressive gateways surround the area and, once you disappear inside, you may even be able to hear the bird song. Occasional joggers circuit the reservoir and secretive lovers whisper and giggle on the battlements, but your most frequent companions will be the chipmunks scurrying along the dusty pathways. You can explore and climb the walls at will, but do be aware that some of the doorways open only onto multi-storey drops. 

 

Whilst in Hauz Khas, take the opportunity to go shopping. Hauz Khas village is home to some of Delhi's most exclusive boutiques, and it is an ideal place to browse everything from wedding clothes to home-ware. Prices can be rather on the scary side but there's no obligation to buy and the galleries showcase the work of some of the country's most famous artists and designers. Particularly interesting is Creativity Gallery (29 Hauz Khas Village) and, if hand-printed textiles are your thing, Cotton Curio (1A/1 Haus Khas Village).  If your energy level's flagging, pop next door to Naivedyam (1, Hauz Khas Village; +91 11 2696 0426; open 11am - 11pm) for fresh vegetarian snacks and excellent South Indian meals.

At the southern end of the blue metro line is Tughluqabad, a ruined fort stretching across an area of 6.5 km. Ghias-uddin Tughluq, a former general of Ala-uddin Khilji, came to power in 1321 and immediately started constructing his own, impregnable fort with sloping, rubble-filled walls as much as 15 m high. The walls were topped with parapets, and entry into the city was via one of 52 heavily fortified gates, of which 13 remain. A building project of such scale required a vast labour force and so Tughluq decreed that all other construction in the city should stop until his own project was completed. It was a fatal move. The Sufi mystic Nizam-uddin Auliya was incensed that work on his well was stopped, and he cursed Tughluq and his new city. Tughluqabad was never occupied, and Ghias-uddin was crushed to death beneath his own tent in AD 1324. His mausoleum, a granite building faced in red sandstone and inlaid with marble panels, is located immediately to the south of the fort, across what is now the Mehrauli-Badarpur road but was once an artificial lake.

Buried at Hauz Khas but with a city entirely of his own making is Feroz Shah Tughlaq, patron of city number four. Feroz Shah was in a tight situation – his treasury was empty and his empire fast disintegrating – but this didn’t stop him embarking on an ambitious building project. He believed that his desire to erect public buildings was a gift from God and his court historians credit him with constructing 1200 gardens, 200 towns, 40 mosques and 100 public baths. He names his city Feroz Shah Kotla and it may be already familiar to you as the home cricket ground of the IPL’s Delhi Daredevils. It’s also one of the venues for the 2011 Cricket World Cup.

Much of Feroz Shah Kotla has been destroyed and its building materials incorporated into other structures. However, the site should not be overlooked on your architectural tour as it is home to an Asokan pillar. Asoka Maurya was a Buddhist emperor of northern India 3^rd century BC and he is often upheld as the model ruler. His edicts were inscribed on rocks and pillars and distributed across his empire for all to see: their message is so enduring that the image of a lion-topped Asokan pillar is the emblem of the Republic of India and appears on rupee notes. Nineteen pillar edicts survive, one of which was wrapped in silk and brought to Delhi in a 42-wheeled carriage by Firoz Shah. Firoz Shah erected the pillar in his palace, perhaps to encourage his courtiers to associate him with the great rulers of the past, and you can climb the pyramidal structure that supports it to read the inscription. The edict is written in the ancient Brahmi script and it contains 10 commandments of the Buddha.

The Purana Qila (Old Fort) is at the heart of Din Panah, Delhi's fifth historic city, and you can reach it by taking the metro to Central Secretariat and then hailing an auto. Inhabited in quick succession by Mughal emperor Humayun, Afghan emperor Sher Shah Suri and military commander Hemu, last king of the 'Hindu Raj' in the mid 16th century AD, this fort is ideally positioned on the banks of the Yamuna River. It is a large, predominantly grass-covered site that is popular with local families, no doubt in part due to its proximity to Delhi's indifferent zoo (www.nzpnewdelhi.gov.in; +91 11 2435 9825; open 9 am - 4.30 pm).  

Enter the site via one of the vast sandstone gates: Humayun's Gate is particularly impressive. Once inside, beware of fast-flying cricket balls, particularly if you plan to take advantage of the open space to have a picnic. One of the most interesting structures is the Sher Mandal, an octagonal sandstone library. The emperor's books were places in the decorative pavilion on the roof, and it was here that after cavorting with his harem and taking opium Humayun fell down the stairs on the way to evening prayers. He died two days later from his injuries.

Of similar age to the Sher Mandal but in better condition is the symmetrical Qila-i-Kuhna Mosque. Built by Sher Shah Suri, you'll notice that archways on the front of the building exactly mirror the mihrabs (prayer niches) set in the western wall. The central prayer hall itself measures 51 x 15 m and it was used by the emperor and his courtiers for Friday prayers. Make sure you examine the calligraphic inscriptions inlaid into the walls in red and white marble and slate.

Within walking distance of the Purana Qila are two sites that, although not part of specific cities, should certainly not be missed. Nizam-uddin Auliya, the saint who cursed Tughluqabad, is buried nearby and his dargah (shrine) attracts huge numbers of devotees even today. If you want to understand India's unique brand of mystical Islam, there is no better place to come and, if you arrive on a Thursday evening, you'll be treated to a free performance of qawwali (Sufi devotional music). The dargah is a religious space and visitors should dress modestly.

The second site is Humayun's tomb, one of the supposed models for the Taj Mahal. Although Humayun's father, Babur, had successfully invaded northern India in 1526, Humayun lost the territory and spent much of his life in exile, returning to power only a year before his fateful fall. The upside of his exile was that he gained first-hand exposure to the high-culture and art of the Safavid emperors in Herat. His tomb incorporates aspects of design from Central Asia (his familial lands), Persia and India and, as such, is the first example we have of the Mughal architectural style. The surrounding gardens are immaculately maintained, and you can also visit the tombs of many of Humayun’s family members and courtiers. 

Continuing north, take the metro to Chandni Chowk in the heart of Shahjahanabad (Old Delhi). The chaos of the city will hit you as soon as you step foot outside the station, but take a deep breath and proceed on foot or by cycle rickshaw towards the Jama Masjid. En-route through Chandni Chowk, stare wide-eyed at the thousands of wholesale goods for sale: everything from wedding invitations to steel rods and pomegranates.

Today’s market stands on the site of ornate havelis (wealthy merchants’ houses) that were bulldozed by the British in 1857 following the Indian Mutiny. It is said that there were so many fountains and water courses here that the streets looked silver in the moonlight, and this gave the area its name (“chandni” meaning silver or moon).

Every street corner hosts a stall selling spicy masala chai and snacks, so make sure you stop along the way to taste the local delicacies. Particularly recommended are the parathas (flat breads fried in clarified butter) and jalebis (deep fried pretzel soaked in rosewater-flavoured sugar syrup). Your heart may never forgive you, but your taste buds will jump with delight. 

The Jama Masjid (also known as the Masjid-i Jahan Numa, or Mosque which reflects the world) was commissioned by Mughal emperor Shah Jahan, builder of the Taj Mahal, and completed in AD 1656. Along with the Lal Qila (Red Fort) a short distance away, it was intended to be the focal point of the new city. Tourists cannot enter the mosque at prayer time or on Fridays, but at other times you are welcome to walk around, providing you’re properly attired. Leave your shoes at the gate with the shoe minder (Rs 5) and proceed inside.

Walk across the huge central courtyard and imagine it filled to capacity with 25,000 worshippers. Each of the inlaid rectangles of black and white marble imitates a Muslim prayer mat and demarcates the space available for each worshipper. The sandstone floor becomes incredibly hot in summertime, so to the carpeted pathways to avoid scalding your feet. You can climb the 130 steps to the top of the left minaret for an exceptional view of the city. Women must be accompanied up the stairs by a man, but there are usually plenty of willing volunteers. At the top of the minaret you’ll also feel a slight breeze: an unexpected treat after the airlessness of the city.

Down an unprepossessing alleyway immediately outside the mosque is Delhi’s most famous restaurant: Karim’s (www.karimhoteldelhi.com; +91 11 2326 9880). Built around a courtyard, the décor is scruffy and the place inevitably overcrowded.  Be patient. It’s worth it. The founders of Karim’s claim to be descended from the chefs of the last Mughal emperor, Bahadur Shah Zafar, and, whether or not this is true, their Mughlai cuisine is divine: tuck into seemingly infinite varieties of kebabs, biryani, tandoori dishes and delicious, buttery flat breads. The yellow-grey goat brain curry may not be to everyone’s taste, but it’s undoubtedly authentic and you’re guaranteed to leave thinking you’ll never need eat again.

It is a short and pleasant walk to reach the Lal Qila. Also constructed by Shah Jahan, the fort took 10 years to complete and was finally finished in 1648. The fort was designed for both luxury and defense, and despite its decades in use as a British garrison, many of the original buildings remain intact.

You enter the fort through the Lahore Gate; look out for the Indian flag raised here by the Prime Minister each Independence day (15^th August). Pass through the covered bazaar where trinket sellers sell overpriced tat to tourists, and out into one of the fort’s many spacious courtyards. Of the many buildings inside, three are particularly attractive: the Diwan-i Aam (public audience hall); the Diwan-i Khas (private audience hall); and the Moti Masjid (Pearl Mosque). Although the gold and silver interiors, even the legendary Peacock Throne, were plundered from the fort in the 18^th and 19^th centuries, it is still effortless to visualise the splendour in which the emperor and courtiers lived. The marble carvings and the pietre dura inlays are exquisite, and the nightly sound and light show goes some was to recreate the atmosphere of the court.

Mughal rule ended brutally in 1857 with the so-called Indian mutiny. Rebellions against the British across northern India spiralled and, in a bid to reassert their authority, the British made the Mughal emperor, Bahadur Shah Zafar, the scapegoat for the revolt. Zafar was a fine patron of the arts but a poor diplomat and weak political figure; the British exiled him to Burma, paraded and executed his male heirs, and incorporated his territories directly into the British Raj.

The British had ruled their Indian territories from Calcutta, where the East India Company had been based since the early 1600s. However, since their empire now expanded far further west, King George V announced during the 1911 Durbar that Delhi would henceforth be India’s capital. He laid the foundation stone for Delhi’s seventh city, New Delhi, little guessing that the British Raj would swiftly lose their city like every ruler past.

Sir Edwin Lutyens laid out a plan for New Delhi that included the imposing Viceroy’s House (now Rashtrapati Bhavan, the official residence of the President), the Secretariat Building (, India Gate, and the broad avenues of Rajpath and Janpath. Although the major government buildings are not usually open to the public, any auto driver will be able to point out the significant features, and it is possible to get quite close by road or on foot.

One of the best views of the Rashtrapati Bhavan and parliament buildings is from Rajpath, the road linking it with India Gate. Families flock to the park here at weekends to picnic and play cricket, and there is always a party atmosphere. If you are lucky enough to be in town on Republic Day (26^th January), the military and cultural parades through this part of the city are phenomenal: expect to see missile launchers, tanks, marching bands and floats featuring costumed dancers from each of the Indian states. The ice cream stalls may look tempting but their ability to keep things frozen is limited, with the risk of Delhi-belly as a consequence. Instead take an auto to nearby Khan Market and check out the Big Chill (68A Khan Market; +91 11 4175 7533) for a fabulous (and safe) array of homemade sorbets and ice creams.

The majority of Delhi’s 5* hotels are within New Delhi, and there is none more splendid than the Imperial, part of Lutyen’s original city plan. Opened in 1931, the Imperial has hosted some of the most important figures and debates of the 20^th century: Nehru, Jinnah, Gandhi and Mountbatten met in the bar to discuss the partition of India and the creation of Pakistan, and a constant stream of royalty and Hollywood/Bollywood stars have followed ever since. If you can’t afford the rooms’ 5* price tag, come instead for afternoon tea on the veranda and take a look at the hotel’s unrivalled art and photographic collection.

Dark falls surprisingly quickly in Delhi, and whilst parts of the capital fall asleep, others are just waking up. Time Out Delhi (www.timeoutdelhi.net) has up-to-date nightlife listing, but whether you’re after live music, somewhere to dance or just somewhere to drink, there are innumerable options clustered around Connaught Place, Khan Market and Greater Kailash, as well as in the larger hotels. Wednesday night is ladies night at Urban Pind (N 4, N Block Market, Greater Kailash; +91 11 3251 4646), a popular spot for the young and beautiful, whilst Agni at the Park Hotel (15 Parliament St, Connaught Place; +91 11 2374 3000) draws a more mature crowd.

 

Delhi undoubtedly has more to offer than can be crammed into a single visit, so don’t try to see everything in one go: identify what interests you most, set out early each day before it gets too hot, and be flexible in your plans. Public holidays, festivals, an important cricket match and even a bout of Delhi-belly can throw the best-laid plans into disarray, so take a relaxed approach to timing and give yourself the chance to explore anything that captures your eye. Whether it is following a caparisoned elephant down the street to a wedding, stopping at dusk to listen to the muezzin’s call echo out across the rooftops, or drinking cold coffee and being accosted by dancing hijras at Bengali Market, take time to soak up the experience. The highlights of Delhi are as much in what you see, here and smell on the way from a to b as in the marvels of the city sites themselves.

Don't miss...

-Taking an early-morning walk among the tombs in Lodhi Gardens.

- Exploring the city from the back of a cycle rickshaw or auto.

-Eating piping hot paratha in Paratha Gali near the Jama Masjid.

-Browsing the book shops and designer boutiques in Khan Market and Hauz Khas.

-Taking afternoon tea in the tranquil surroundings of the Imperial hotel.

- Listening to Thursday-night qawwali music at the tomb of Nizamuddin Auliya.

-Watching the sunset over the Qutb Minar.

Holiday reading

Dalrymple, W. City of Djinns: A Year in Delhi

Nath, A. A Dome over India: Rashtrapati Bhavan

Tully, M. India in Slow Motion

The Architects' Dream: Building Astana

As late as 1991, Kazakhstan's modern capital was little more than a dot on the frozen wastelands of the country's northern steppe. In just two decades, however, Astana has exploded out of the earth into a political playground, financial hub and veritable architects' dream. Unrestrained by lack of space, money or ambition, the blank canvas of Astana's skyline has been transformed with imaginative design. Home-grown talent battles for attention among international heavy-weights, and even the global recession has scarcely slowed Astana's expansion.

As yet largely undiscovered by international tourists, the majority of visitors to Astana are business travellers drawn by Kazakhstan's vast oil and gas resources. For those with the time and inclination to step outside the city's numerous 5* hotels, however, Astana is a vibrant city that encapsulates President Nazarbayev's vision for a modern, high-profile and evidently wealthy Kazakhstan.   

The newest kid on the architectural block is the Khan Shatyry (the "Royal Marquee"), the world's largest tent. Inspired by Kazakhtsan's nomadic past, Foster and Partners have designed a tent 150 m tall with a floor area equivalent to 10 football pitches. If the idea of boating in a gondola, playing golf indoors, or relaxing on a beach some 5000 km from the sea appeals, this is the place to come. Almost as impressive as the structure and its contents is the innovative temperature control system which ensures the air remains a balmy 20 degrees Celsius even whilst outside temperatures swing from -35 in winter to +35 in summer. The central atrium has hosted concerts by the likes of Andrea Bocelli, and the performance space is used on a regular basis by circus groups, dance troupes and bands. 

Foster's other contribution to Astana's skyline is the Palace of Peace and Reconciliation. This pyramid-shaped structure, comprised of tessellating triangles of granite and stained glass, was built to host a triennial conference of world religions, and its shape was chosen as it was not associated with any one of the religious groups represented. The main conference chamber is upheld by four huge struts, which Foster claims symbolise the hands of peace. The palace also houses a 1,500-seat opera house, educational facilities, and the national centre for information about Kazakhstan's many ethnic groups.

Two thirds of Kazakhstan's population are officially Muslim and so it is fitting that the Nur Astana Mosque should be among the city's most iconic buildings. A gift from the Emir of Qatar and the output of a Lebanese architect, the Nur Astana is one of 1700 mosques built in Kazakhstan since independence: the religion is experiencing a remarkable renaissance after years of being outlawed under Communism. Each of the 63 m high minarets (symbolic as the Prophet was 63 when he died) is constructed from white marble and surrounds a golden dome, in stark contrast to the muted, pastel interior painted by Kazakh artists before the mosque's official opening in 2008.   

The growth of Astana has been integrally linked with the power of Nazarbayev, and as he enters his eighth decade and the city also comes to maturity, it will be interesting to see if Kazakhstan's first President has one last architectural swansong up his sleeve.  The architectural legacy he leaves behind is, in any case, a legacy befitting of a man whose own ascendancy cannot be separated out from the birth and emergence on the international scene of the country and capital he built.

HOLIDAY READING

Aitken, J. Nazarbayev and the Making of Kazakhstan: From Communism to Capitalism

Brummell, P. Kazakhstan

Omrani, B. Asia Overland: Tales of Travel on the Trans-Siberian and Silk Road

Robbins, C. In Search of Kazakhstan: The Land that Disappeared