Living the high life in Abu Dhabi and Dubai

The United Arab Emirates is a country of superlatives: everything has to be bigger, better and faster than anywhere else. Dubai and Abu Dhabi drip wealth from every angle, and if you have a little something to spend, there’s no more exciting place to do it. The world’s tallest building, man-made islands, snow in the desert, shopping and restaurants par excellence, and a striking natural environment are just a few of the features that pull in vast international crowds and keep them coming back for more.

 As late as the 1960s, the territories now belonging to the UAE were little more than desert. Pearl fishing was the principal industry, but even that was fading. And then they struck gold: black gold. In less than half a century, Abu Dhabi and Dubai have gone from being provincial backwaters to two of the wealthiest cities on the planet: their wealth has put them on the map, and evidence of that wealth is everywhere.  

The UAE is undoubtedly an assault on the senses and, for tourists at least, that necessitates being selective about what you see and do. The three structures known as the Burj Khalifa, The Palm Jumeirah and the Sheikh Zayed Mosque provide insight into the country’s core (if on the surface incompatible) values of innovation, indulgence, and faith, and consequently they’re great places to start.

The Burj Khalifa (www.burjkhalifa.ae) is perhaps better known as the world’s tallest building. Standing 829.84 m tall it is a masterpiece of engineering and a tasteful addition to Dubai’s skyline. Floors in the building went up at a rate of one every three days, the structure cost US $1.5 billion, and four men have even BASE jumped from the tower. It took 90 seconds to reach the ground. Visitors less inclined to suicide can speed to the top at 18m/sec in one of the 57 elevators, get a birds-eye view of the city from the outdoor observation deck (452m), or simply keep their feet on the ground and crane their necks to the sky whilst soaking up the ambience created by the photogenic Dubai Fountain.

Down on the coast, The Palm Jumeirah (www.palmjumeirah.ae) is an artificial archipelago stuffed with luxury hotels and villas. Atlantis is the beating heart of The Palm: beaches, pools and spas compete for attention with a 42-acre water park, dive centre and an 11.5 million litre aquarium with 65,000 fish. Meandering amongst the attractions you’ll also find outlets from the likes of Porsche, Tiffany & Co. and Cartier, whilst award-winning Nobu (www.noburestaurants.com/dubai) and other fine-dining options will keep you well-fed into the early hours.

120km away in Abu Dhabi, richest city on earth, the magnificent Sheikh Zayed Mosque (www.szgmc.ae/en) offers a temporary diversion from ostentatious consumerism. Zayed was the founding father of the UAE, and the mosque carrying his name can house more than 40,000 worshippers. With domes reminiscent of the Taj Mahal, the white marble walls and minarets are inlaid with gold, semi-precious stones and crystal. The mosque is as impressive by night as by day, and non-Muslims are welcome to visit on a guided tour as long as they are respectful and properly attired.

For the less sedate, the UAE has plenty to keep even the most dependent adrenalin junkie entertained. Despite the soaring summer temperatures, it is cool year round at Ski Dubai (www.skidxb.com), the first indoor ski resort in the Middle East, and the Olympic-sized Dubai Ice Rink in Dubai Mall (www.dubaiicerink.com). The latter hosts the annual Emirates Hockey League Cup and you can catch ice hockey matches there throughout the season.

Out of the cities the biggest attractions are somewhat sandy: camel safaris for wannabe Lawrence of Arabias, and dune bashing (or surfing) for lovers of speed.   The most popular destination for both these activities are in Abu Dhabi’s empty quarter – the Liwa Desert – and the area surrounding the picturesque Fossil Rock (AKA Camel Rock) in Dubai.

Bedouin still consider camels to be the Rolls Royces of the desert, even if Toyota Land Cruisers have now largely usurped them for long journeys across the sands.  Visitors dipping their toe in the proverbial water can ride for a few hours, taking a break for a traditional Arab meal, whilst the more determined can avail themselves of the variety of over-night camel safari packages. Accommodation is in luxury tents under the stars, and evening entertainment (a distraction from your saddle sores) includes belly dancing, henna painting and local music, enjoyed with an accompanying sheesha pipe. A night in the desert is your best chance to step back in time and experience Emirati life as it was before the oil came.

Today’s Emiratis have two loves: the desert and the car. Get used to seeing super cars shooting along the highways, and an impressive line-up of brand new Lamborghinis, Porsches and Maybachs outside every major hotel and restaurant. If you want to get behind the wheel in the desert, however, a Toyota Land Cruiser is the popular choice: it’s less likely to get stuck in the sand. A half day of dune bashing will set you back US $40-60 per person, and the exhilaration pulses from every part of your body as you race and slide through the desert. Most tour companies will take you into the desert as part of a group, and you follow a pre-determined circuit enabling you to try a variety of stunts without getting lost. Dune bashing should not be attempted in a standard vehicle: a roll cage is an essential modification that could save your life in the event of a roll over.

Back in the cities, there is plenty to do whilst you recover from the adrenalin hit and inevitable bruising. Keeping with the car theme, Ferrari World (www.ferrariworldabudhabi.com) is a stone’s throw from the Yas Marina Grand Prix circuit (www.yasmarinacircuit.com). The largest indoor amusement park in the world, Ferrari World covers 200,000 sqm and is home to the world’s fastest rollercoaster: Formula Rossa. Inside the building, which is modelled after the side profile of a Ferrari GT, you’ll find a gallery of Ferraris, a virtual tour inside the Ferrari factory, and a junior racing school with child-sized Ferrari F1 cars. Adults can enjoy state-of-the-art racing simulators, an interactive 3D show following the life of Ferrari engineers, and recreations of the skylines of famous Italian cities. Petrol heads in Dubai should check out Kartdrome at the Duabi Autodrome (www.dubaiautodrome.com/arrive-drive-2/) where you can fulfil your dreams as a racing driver for the day.

Abu Dhabi is already well on its way to becoming the cultural heart of the UAE and, in time, a global centre for the arts. The construction of Saadiyat Island (www.saadiyat.ae), 500m off the coast of Abu Dhabi, is already well under way. The Zayed National Museum, designed by Foster and Partners and developed with the expertise of the British Museum, will be the first major museum site to open on the island, followed swiftly by branches of the Louvre (due 2013) and the Guggenheim (due 2014). In the meantime, the Saadiyat Beach Golf Club is already up and running, with spectacular views across the Arabian Gulf.

Culture vultures in Dubai will not be disappointed either. The Art Bus (www.artinthecity.com) runs between museums, galleries and studios throughout the city during major art festivals and exhibitions. Many of these are located in Bastakiya (Old Dubai), where you can also find the Al Fahidi Fort. The mud fort was built in 1787 (making it the oldest building still standing in Dubai) and it now houses Dubai Museum. Life-size dioramas show various aspects of Emirati life, including recreations of a date farm, a Bedouin tent and pearl fishing, and there are also archaeological finds dating back to around 3000 BC.

Near to the fort is the Majlis Gallery (www.themajlisgallery.com), a traditional Arabic house with original wind towers that keep it cool. Whitewashed rooms around a large, open courtyard display temporary exhibitions by contemporary artists, and there are also high-quality artisanal works on sale: the handmade glass, fabrics and pottery are particularly good. Art lovers should also make time to check out the Meem Gallery (www.meem.ae) which features work from modern and contemporary Middle Eastern artists and is home to the Noor Library of Islamic Art, and the Mojo Gallery (www.themojogallery.com) with its focus on conceptual and digital arts. Mojo holds regular public workshops if you have an artistic flair.  

No visit to Dubai would be complete without a trip to the shops. The winter Dubai Shopping Festival (www.dubaishoppingfestival.com) and Dubai Summer Surprises (www.dubaievents.ae) are the best times to grab a bargain as many stores heavily discount their stock, but expect the malls to be packed. The undoubted queen of malls is Dubai Mall (www.thedubaimall.com), a veritable labyrinth of luxury brands, more affordable brands, restaurants and entertainment venues. The centrepiece of the mall (and an excellent place to leave children and husbands whilst you browse) is Dubai Aquarium. Shoppers can gawp at more than 33,000 fish and marine animals (including giant piranhas, catfish, otters and penguins), walk through the underwater viewing tunnel and, if so inclined, even take a dip in the tank.  

If the mere thought of the malls send you into a cold sweat but you still want to take home a few souvenirs, head into one of Dubai’s many markets and souks. Gold, spice and textile souks still line Dubai Creek and, when combined with a river ride in an historic dhow, offer a glimpse into a whole new side of the city. Gold and precious stones are sold by weight and quality but you’ll have to haggle hard if you want a bargain price. There is greater flexibility on the price of fabrics, particularly around Eid, but make sure you compare the quality and prices across a number of shops. If you fancy a tailor-made suit and have a few days to wait, this is also the place to come.

When night falls, the UAE wakes up and both Emiratis and expats come out to play. Malls and restaurants are open into the early hours, and bars and clubs rarely open before midnight. Alcohol is illegal for locals but available to foreigners providing they are over 21. Time Out (www.timeoutdubai.com) and the local media both advertise the latest hotpots and the constant stream of performances by international DJs, rock stars and pop starlets.  Celebrity guests can be spotted at new bar Cirque du Soir (www.cirquedusoir.com), where a cast of circus performers make for a glitzy and theatrical evening. Equally showy is the Ibiza-esque poolside Ikandy Bar (Sheikh Zayed Road) with its palm trees and perma-tanned guests and, for those slightly more sophisticated media types, Z:One (Dubai Media City) is a popular choice.

The UAE never sleeps, and neither do many of its guests. Whether you choose to spend your time on the beach, in the mall, or surrounded by shifting desert sands, you’ll have no trouble filling your days.  In a week in Dubai you can eat better, do more, sleep more luxuriantly and party harder than almost anywhere else on earth, providing the credit card keeps working. You may, however, need a break to get over the holiday.

PRACTICALITIES SIDEBAR

Getting there and around

Dubai is one of the best-connected airports in the world, so getting to the UAE is a breeze. Emirates flies direct to both Singapore (SGD 1290 return inc. taxes) and Hong Kong (SGD 1200 return inc. taxes) and Singaporean, Hong Kong and Malaysian nationals (amongst others) can get a visa on arrival for AED 100 (SGD 35).

Road infrastructure within the UAE is excellent, though the level of traffic can be a little unnerving for first-time visitors.  Car hire companies require tourists to have an international license and a valid credit card, and self-drive is undoubtedly the best way to travel on longer journeys. In the cities, taxis are reasonably priced (though not a give-away), buses are frequent and well-maintained, and Dubai has an excellent metro system. Public transport is cheap, safe and well-used by residents and visitors alike.

When to go

The UAE burns throughout July and August, with temperatures well above 40 Celsius. The air conditioning is effective and some hotels offer bargain prices, but even stepping outside is an exhausting experience and the desert is virtually a no-go area. The rest of the year sees pleasant temperatures, clear skies and little rain.

Shopaholics are drawn to the bargains on sale during Dubai Shopping Festival (5 January – 5 February 2012), camel and date festivals draw guests from across the Gulf in the winter months, and the Grand Prix at the Yas Marina circuit is the highlight of the sporting calendar.

Where to stay

The UAE has a hotel for every budget, but certainly favours the lavish. Atlantis the Palm (www.atlantisthepalm.com) and the Burj al Arab (www.jumeirah.com) are the biggest, flashiest names in Dubai, whilst the Desert Islands and Qasr al Sarab Desert Resorts (both www.anantara.com) pack a punch among the dunes of Abu Dhabi.

Mid-range options in downtown Dubai include the Rose Rayhaan on iconic Sheikh Zayed Road and the Amwaj Rotana at Jumeirah Beach (both www.rotana.com), and comfortable budget choices include the numerous Hotel Ibis in Dubai (www.ibishotel.com), the Mercure Centre Hotel in Abu Dhabi (www.accorhotels.com), and the Sharjah Rotana in Sharjah (also www.rotana.com).

Where to eat

Emirati cuisine is a fabulous fusion of global flavours: biryani may be the national dish but the Gulf also provides fantastic seafood, dried fruits and nuts, and wonderfully rich lamb dishes. Al Dahleez (Al Boom Tourist Village) and Al Hadheerah (Bab Al Shams Desert Resort) are famous for their Emirati dishes, Al Mahara (Burj al Arab) and Aquara (Dubai Marina Yacht Club) serve up wonderfully fresh fish, and the award-winning cakes and cappuccinos in Abu Dhabi’s Zyara (Madinat Zayed) are a must for a mid-afternoon repast.

Useful websites

www.timeoutdubai.com What’s on guide to Dubai

www.timeoutabudhabi.com What’s on guide to Abu Dhabi

www.uaeinteract.com News and information about the UAE

www.definitelydubai.com Tourism portal

www.abudhabitourism.ae