Showing posts with label asia. Show all posts
Showing posts with label asia. Show all posts

Friday, 27 April 2012

The Creation of the Orient


Does the Orient exist? At first this may appear as stupid a question as asking if there is such a place as China or Japan. However, whereas countries are undoubtedly specific landmasses, the concept of ‘the Orient’ does not fit nearly so neatly onto one particular place. Indeed, it could even be argued that there is no physical place called the Orient at all; Edward Said, author of controversial 1978 book Orientalism, argued that the Orient was a concept held in the West’s collective imagination that helped to quantify unknown cultures and peoples in the East and, by extension, to subjugate colonial subjects. Whilst I agree the Orient exists in collective consciousness, its value is not in its capacity to subjugate but in its attempt to gain understanding, albeit it sometimes partial or misinformed, of others.

In the 18th century, ‘the Orient’ was used to refer solely to North Africa and the Middle East; India and the Far East were added later. Well into the 20th century, those who came to study the Orient did so predominantly from a background of Classics and Biblical studies. It is perhaps, therefore, of little surprise that when these early orientalists quantified, codified and described their oriental topics, they did so with reference to what they already knew. Thus, languages such as Sanskrit and Persian were studied in their most archaic forms, enabling comparison with Latin and Greek, Islamic odes were compared the Odyssey and the Iliad, and the main use of learning Arabic was believed to be in understanding biblical Hebrew.

The West’s preoccupation with Classics impacted on nascent studies of the Orient in a number of ways. Firstly, as the cultures of ancient Greece and Rome were seen to represent Europe’s pinnacles of achievement, similar ‘golden ages’ were sought in the ancient past of the Orient. Egypt of the pharaohs and the Achemenid, Assyrian and Sassanid civilizations were consequently of particular interest to early orientalists.

The problems of this approach were two-fold: firstly, study of ancient civilizations and languages was pursued in preference to study of their modern counterparts. The 19th century Arabist, Reynold Nicholson, was typical of oriental academics in that he was unable to speak either Arabic or Persian, despite teaching both.[1] Secondly, if the summit of a society’s cultural achievement was in some long-forgotten age, it made sense to orientalists that the subsequent period had been one of stagnation or decline. Since the indigenous population had never regained their former glory, or so the argument went, it was the responsibility of orientalists to educate them about their history so that they might be inspired to strive to achieve such heights once again. The exact nature of this ‘golden age’ was to be defined by western philologists, poets, theologians, archaeologists, numismatists etc., regardless of any flaws in their conclusions and, at times, extreme creative license. Colonial powers could take advantage of the orientalists’ work because, they argued, only westerners held the key to knowledge about the past. The guiding, benevolent hand of the all-knowing West was, therefore, in the best interests of the East.

Europe’s obsession with biblical study simultaneously spurred on and restricted the development of oriental studies. The learning of oriental languages, translation of texts and comparative philology certainly benefited from the financial support of the church and the interest of clergyman as, during the 17th and early 18th centuries when orientalism was in its infancy, priests were among the small minority of people who were both educated and able to gain access to manuscripts.  The orientalist ‘projects’ of these individuals were numerous but commonly related to the following topics: proving that Hebrew was the primordial language; establishing the authority of Exodus; discrediting the views of the Eastern Orthodox church; and portraying the rise of Islam as both a punishment for the sins of Christians and the downfall of once great civilizations. Pursuing these themes gave scholars exposure to diverse texts and ideas and sparked in some genuine appreciation of oriental literature and art, curiosity about religious practices and theological concepts, research into manners and customs etc.

The trouble with these orientalists’ work was the context of religious bigotry in which they worked. Reliance on church patronage and the general public’s ideas about what was acceptable both influenced which ideas gained currency; indeed, when the Arabist George Sale translated the Qu’ran into English in 1734, even his slightest praise of Islam was thought too favorable and was derided by his colleagues. Far more popular, and therefore more widely circulated, were tracts that derided Islam and portrayed the Prophet as a fraud. Writings often outlined the dichotomy between the supposedly superior, Christian West and the inferior, Islamic East. Every characteristic of the Occident had an opposite in the Orient: rationality contrasted with spirituality, liberal democracy was compared to despotism, and sexual morality was juxtaposed with the erotic sensualism believed to result from polygamy and a penchant for harems. The need to pigeon-hole ideas into this framework of opposites restricted the scope of orientalist ideas in circulation.

The value in orientalists’ ideas is not their accuracy, for they were often flawed, but the influence that they had on creating the idea of a place called ‘the Orient’ in public imagination. The concept clearly sank deep as, despite the fact that few Europeans even now have personal experience of countries considered ‘oriental’, orientalists’ ideas have been incorporated into today’s popular thinking; an association of the East with exoticism, fascination with figures such as Tamerlane, Genghis Khan and Marco Polo, and even a fear of Islam rising on Europe’s doorstep originated or were developed in orientalist writings. The greatest impact of orientalism, therefore, is the instantaneous way in which ‘the Orient’ conjures up a thousand images without the need for further explanation. Whether or not the Orient exists, or indeed has ever existed, as a physical place is irrelevant; ‘the Orient’ as a concept is ingrained in the minds of people across the world, influencing not only how they see others, but how they understand themselves.



[1] Irwin, R. For Lust of Knowing: The Orientalists and their Enemies (Penguin: London, 2007) p. 208

Wednesday, 1 February 2012

Lahore, Lahore.... A Travel Guide


IN A NUTSHELL
Who hold Zam-Zammah, that 'fire-breathing dragon', hold the Punjab, for the great green-bronze piece is always first of the conqueror's loot.
                                                                                                Rudyard Kipling, Kim

Kipling’s most famous work opens outside Lahore Museum with his boy protagonist, Kim, illicitly straddling the giant cannon, Zam-Zammah. The city was Kipling’s own childhood stomping ground, and all those who read his picaresque novel cannot fail to be charmed by his evocative descriptions of Lahore.
Today the city is a bustling metropolis and Pakistan’s undisputed cultural capital. Two millennia of history compete for space with world-class cricket stadiums, brand new mosques and the city’s eponymous film industry: Lollywood. The city’s elite hangs out at the colonial era Country Club and brand new Oasis golf resort, whilst bright young things party the night away at secret nightclubs and underground raves. 


GETTING THERE AND AROUND
Lahore’s Allama Iqbal International Airport is Pakistan’s second largest, and it is well connected to Europe and the Middle East. PIA also flies to Bangkok, Beijing and Tokyo, though these flights are a little less regular. Pakistan’s train network is a relic of the British but is still a cheap and relatively efficient way to get around the country.
Within Lahore, buses and auto-rickshaws are inexpensive, though the traffic is something to behold and you take your life in your hands by venturing out! Taxis are a little more pricey, and not always well maintained, but you’re guaranteed more personal space. Do not, however, expect a taxi driver to necessarily know his way around. Excitingly, a mass rapid transit system (MRT) is on the cards for Lahore, but it is unlikely to open before 2020.

5 PLUSES
1. Fantastic food
2. Well preserved historical buildings
3. Rich and accessible culture
4. Few other foreign tourists
5. English widely spoken 


5 MINUSES
1. Over-population
2. Chaotic traffic
3. Sporadic security concerns
4. Smog
5. Pakistan is dry

10 MUST-SEES AND MUST-DOS
1. Shalimar Gardens: Lahore is known as the City of Gardens, and the Shalimar is undoubtedly its most famous. Laid out during the reign of Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan (r. 1628-58), the garden is on a north-south axis with three terraces, pavilions and baths, 410 fountains and a complex irrigation system. The garden is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 
2. Food Street: Foodies flock to Gawal Mandi like mosquitos around a lamp. Pedestrianised after dark, numerous small cafes spill out tables and chairs onto the street, and serve a mouth-watering array of traditional Punjabi meals and snacks. Kebabs spitting on the open grills smell divine, whilst biryanis, fried fish and haleem (thick soup with lentils, meat and grain) are also perennial favourites 
3. Anarkali: Lahore’s oldest bazaar, which sells traditional foods, embroideries and cloth, takes its name from a slave girl who was supposedly buried alive by Emperor Akbar for having an affair with his son (the future Jahangir). Her octagonal mausoleum is still here, and it is in Anarkali you will most likely catch a glimpse or hear the jingling bells of her modern counterparts, Lahore’s dancing girls.
4. Badshahi Mosque: The largest mosque in the world until 1986, the Badshahi was constructed in 1671 at the order of Emperor Aurangzeb. Each of the mosque’s four minarets is taller than the Taj Mahal, and it is capable of accommodating some 100,000 worshippers thanks to its vast sandstone courtyard. The mosque’s small museum contains relics of the Prophet Muhammed, his cousin Ali and his daughter Fatima. Exceptionally busy on Fridays. 

5. Lahore Fort: Lahore’s other UNESCO World Heritage Site. Archaeologists have found remains from the 11th century AD  within the grounds, but the current structure dates from the late 1500s. Of particular interest are the impressive Alamgiri Gate, the Naulakha Pavilion, and original wall paintings. Tip: watch a majestic sunset over the fort from the rooftop of Cooco’s restaurant (see below). 


6. Minar-e Pakistan: This 92m high tower in Iqbal Park commemorates the Muslim League’s first request for an independent Pakistan back in 1940. Constructed from white marble, the minaret is engraved with Quranic verses, the text of the Lahore Resolution, Pakistan’s National Anthem, poetic couplets by Allama Iqbal, and excerpts from speeches by Muhammad Ali Jinnah, the founder of Pakistan.
7. Lahore Museum: This impressive red sandstone building on The Mall was the architectural centrepiece of colonial Lahore. Built in the so-called Mughal-Gothic style, Kipling’s father, John Lockwood Kipling, was its most famous curator. The collection includes Graeco-Buddhist sculptures, Hellenistic and Mughal coins, pottery and paintings as well, of course, as the infamous cannon, Zam-Zammah. Check out the virtual tour at www.lahoremuseum.org.
8. Data Darbar: One of the oldest shrines in the Indian Subcontinent, the Data Darbar houses the remains of the 11th century Sufi saint Abul Hassan Ali Hajvery. A popular pilgrimage site for both Muslims and Hindus prior to Partition,  the shrine is particularly atmospheric during religious holidays when it is decorated with lights and food is served to hundreds of people, accompanied by  the dulcet tones of Sufi singers and their instruments. Visitors of all religions are welcome to watch or join in the dancing.
9. Samadhi of Ranjit Singh: Known as the ‘Lion of the Punjab’, Ranjit Singh was crowned in 1801 as the leader of the Sikh Empire. A fierce and capable warrior, Ranjit Singh is best known for his patronage of the Golden Temple in Amritsar but also for annexing Kashmir. When he died in 1848, he was buried beneath this ornate tomb, his ashes encased in a lotus shaped urn. The pietra dura work in the marble pavilion is especially fine.
10. Wagah Border: 26km east of Lahore is the Indo-Pakistani border. Every day since 1959, Wagah has hosted an elaborate and nationalism-fuelled retreat ceremony, where soldiers from both sides compete to see who can shout loudest and goose step highest.  Join the good-natured crowds of supporters, wave your flag, and chant until you are hoarse. Note that spectators on the Pakistani side are segregated by sex. 



5 ESSENTIAL EATS
1. Cooco’s: A Lahore institution, this rooftop restaurant overlooks both the Badshahi Mosque and Lahore Fort. Owner Iqbal Hussain’s paintings and objet d’art provide plenty of food for thought, and hearty meals are winched up the outside of the building in an earthenware pot before serving. Get there early to guarantee a table and relax as you watch the sunset.
Roshnai Gate, Fort Rd


2. Bundu Khan: Ever popular (and now with a sister-branch in London), Bundu Khan serves up gloriously rich mutton in gravy, brain masala (far tastier than it sounds) and other spicy treats. Take away is available at lunchtime.
The Mall
3. Dumpukht: Named for the favoured cuisine of the Nawabs of Avadh, this is indeed a restaurant fit for a king! Delicately flavoured dishes such as the Raan-e-Dum Pukht (a leg of lamb marinated and stuffed with onions, cheese, and mint) are a pleasant change to the usual Punjabi dishes.
Pearl Continental Hotel, The Mall
4. Food Street: Follow your nose, grab a table wherever you can, and sink your teeth into divine mutton and chicken kebabs, washed down with a refreshing lassi (yoghurt drink) or Kashmiri tea. 
Gowal Mandi, Anarkali
5. Iceberg: This American-style ice cream parlour offers the perfect retreat from the heat and chaos outside. There are 20+ flavours of ice cream and frozen yoghurt, and a bewildering array of sauces and toppings.
Allama Iqbal Rd

5 ESSENTIAL STAYS
1. Avari: Set back from The Mall, this award-winning hotel is surrounded by gorgeous and surprisingly peaceful gardens. Regularly rated as the best hotel in Pakistan, guests are warmly welcomed and have every amenity at their fingertips. Doubles from US $190 per night. The Mall. www.avari.com
2. Pearl Continental is a 500-room megalith with an impressive modern façade and atrium.  Primarily used by business travellers and wedding parties, the hotel is pricy for Lahore but appropriately luxurious. Rates from US $190 per night. The Mall. www.pchotels.com
3. Park Plaza: A new addition to the chain, the Park Plaza is an archetypal international hotel with neutral décor and pleasant, English-speaking staff. The his and hers spas are an added bonus. Doubles from US $125 per night. MM Alam Rd. www.parkplaza.com
4. Hospitality Inn Lahore: Formerly the Holiday Inn, this conveniently located property has 120 immaculate rooms, five restaurants and cafes, and friendly, attentive staff. There is also a beauty salon and health club on site. Rates from US $110 per night. 26/26 Egerton Rd. www.hospitalityinnlahore.com
5. The Residency describes itself as the first boutique hotel in Lahore. What you’ll find is an imaginatively presented modern property with a slightly colonial feel. Staff are attentive to detail and security is reassuringly tight. Gulberg V. www.rh.com.pk  

Thursday, 27 October 2011

"Engaging with Asia: The Challenges and Opportunities for the UK"


Tuesday night saw the launch event for FLAG (Future Leaders in Asia Group), the UK's first dedicated pan-Asian networking and leadership training forum. The event took place at the Cass Business School and the topic under discussion for the evening's four prestigious panelists and 60+ guests was "Engaging with Asia: The Challenges and Opportunities for the UK".


The four panelists were: 
 
Lord Desai, Professor Emeritus of the London School of Economics (LSE, former Director of LSE Global Governance and founding member of the LSE's Development Studies Institute (DESTIN)



Lord Flight, Chairman of Arden and Partners, former Shadow Chief Secretary to the Treasury and former Deputy Chairman of the Conservative Party


Sir David John KCMG, Chairman of BSI Group, co-founder of the Association of MBAs and former member of the CBI's International Advisory Board


Wan Zaidi Wan Abdullah, Deputy Malaysian High Commissioner and former Counsel General of Malaysia to Mumbai

Each of the panelists has extensive experience working in Asia, and they were able to draw upon observations from the fields of industry and finance, diplomacy and politics. Having initially spoken individually, the panelists then entered into combined discussion on the changing nature of the UK´s relationship with Asia, the responsibility of individuals as well as governments to actively seek engagement, and the differences between doing business with smaller Asian nations as opposed to BRIC countries.

Members of the audience then ploughed into the discussion with their own questions, drawing attention to controversial subjects such as the challenges presented to businesses by the UK's new bribery and corruption legislation. The panelists responded frankly and with good humour. 


Once out of the auditorium, the drinks flowed and discussion continued. The attendees, a mix of professionals, MBAs and masters students all with an active interest in Asia,  found plenty to talk about, so much so that a significant number moved on to All Bar One and then the late-opening B@1 on Bishop's Square.
For more information about FLAG or to sign up for future events, go to www.flagnetwork.org. 

Sunday, 28 August 2011

Sustainable tourism in C. Asia


If you are unable to pick out Kyrgyzstan on a map, do not fear: you are not alone. With a population of little over 5 million, this Soviet Union successor state sits quietly nestled between China, Tajikistan, Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan and, with the exception of its charmingly named ‘Tulip Revolution’ in 2005, has barely made a mark on the western media. The country is largely rural and, until recently, tourists to the region have generally bypassed Kyrgyzstan in favour of package tours to the great Silk Road cities of Khiva, Bukhara and Samarkhand in neighbouring Uzbekistan. Kyrgyzstan cannot compete for architectural splendour, but is slowly fighting back, giving foreigners the opportunity to share in its stunning natural environment and nomadic culture through living, socialising and travelling with the people of Kyrgyzstan. Through this community-based approach, Kyrgyzstan has begun to make its mark as the world leader in sustainable tourism.

The largest ethnic group in Kyrgyzstan are the Kyrgyz, a Turkic people that make up around 70% of the population. They are traditionally semi-nomadic herders, living in yurts (felt and animal skin tents built around a wooden frame) in the mountain pastures during the summer and then bringing down their sheep, yaks and horses to escape the snows at the end of September. When the yurts are in the summer pastures, you can travel from one to the next, staying with local families and using their horses. The Community Based Tourism organisation (CBT) has a network of local guides across the country to help you find your chosen homestay in the seemingly endless mountains, take you trekking and show you the very heart of Kyrgyzstan. They are not professionals in the tourism industry but usually farmers and herders in neighbouring areas, sharing their personal experience without any of the crass commercialism of tour buses, action-packed itineraries and the rest of the West crammed in beside you.

The highlights of Kyrgyzstan have to be the lakes of Issyk-Kul and Karakol, surrounded on all sides by the soaring peaks of the Ala-Too Mountains. Despite its elevation, Issyk-Kul never freezes; it is heated from below by volcanic activity. The warm water has enabled a number of sanatoria with thermal springs and mud baths to develop on the northern shore, but the real attraction in both areas undoubtedly remains the natural landscape. Whether you explore it by horse or on foot with a guide and porters, it is easy to see why this part of the world was so little known until the arrival of Russian explorers partaking in the Great Game.

Kyrgyzstan’s greatest draw is that in a world where the greatest sites are so often spoiled by the presence of too many people, well meaning or otherwise, you can still leave the capital, Bishkek, and enter into a natural environment of awe-inspiring proportions that is still completely untouched by mankind. The few people you encounter, with their temporary shelters, mobile flocks and four-legged transport leave no mark on the landscape when they move on, and so if the country’s tourists were to be any different, it would be nothing but destructive. Kyrgyzstan has, it seems, got the balance right, bringing in much needed tourist dollars and projecting an overwhelmingly positive image to the international community without falling for model of tourism that blights so many other developing countries.

Tuesday, 23 August 2011

Darjeeling (un)Limited

My apologies in advance for the erratic layout of this post - I am in Dubai and so blogspot has auto-set to an Arabic language version, including setting all my lines and some of the punctuation as if I were writing right to left!

 If you saw Wes Anderson’s film The Darjeeling Ltd. and thought you might like to recreate the adventure, start well before the plot begins and take a pilgrimage to Glenburn. It was whilst staying on this, the most magical of tea estates, that Anderson conceived the idea for the film. Quite frankly, he could hardly have been anything but inspired.

Some 600km from Kolkata and an hour or so from Darjeeling town, the Glenburn Tea Estate clings to the foothills of the Himalayas, bordering the kingdom of Sikkim. Kanchenjunga, the world’s 3rd highest mountain, dominates the horizon and two rivers, the Rungeet and the Rung Dung, entwine themselves as they run through valleys not out of place in a Tolkien novel. Overlooking it all is the Burra Bungalow, Glenburn’s boutique hotel and former home of the estate manager, your host Sanjay Sharma.

Other than the spectacular natural environment, there are two things that set Glenburn apart from other places to stay in Darjeeling or, indeed, elsewhere in the world. Firstly, you will never be crowded by other people. There are just four rooms in the Burra Bungalow and another four are due to open later this year. The result of this is that it simply doesn’t feel like a hotel; you are a guest in a home, welcome to roam around the estate all day and then return for drinks, dinner and lively conversation around the giant dining table once darkness falls. Next, the attention to detail of Glenburn’s staff (who outnumber guests five to one) is second to none. Freshly prepared picnics, afternoon tea and fresh juice appear from nowhere across the estate whether you are trekking the 2 hours down to the river or merely mooching in the garden. The food, ingredients for which are grown organically on the estate wherever possible, is exquisite and guests are treated to both Nepali and Naga dishes as well as international cuisine. The homemade breads and chocolate brownies slip down a treat.

Lest you think that Glenburn exists to provide a tourist paradise, you need to think again. Huge energy is undoubtedly put in to making the Glenburn experience perfect for visitors but the fact remains that the estate’s principal business is tea. The estate comprises 1600 acres of tea and jungle and employs around 900 people in tea production. A population of 4700 people is supported by the estate, which clothes and feeds them as well as providing health care and education. The estate’s management take responsibility for local development and if you’re interested will share every aspect of their work with you, from factory tours and tea tastings to school and hospital visits. Glenburn offers you an unrivalled opportunity to retreat from the rest of the world but also the chance to understand and engage with the community that works and lives on the estate.

Monday, 8 August 2011

Kolkata Crumbles


Kolkata grew from a small-time port in the 17th century into the capital of British India, a little piece of London on the edge of the subcontinent. The city’s architecture was a physical manifestation of the power of the British Empire, designed to demand respect from those who saw it and also to remind them that sovereignty came from England alone. Sixty years after independence, the historic sites of this erstwhile capital are crumbling away. Once magnificent buildings are decaying from negligence, lack of funds, ownership disputes and uncontrolled squatting.

The Currency Building on Dalhousie Square, the heart of colonial Kolkata, bears a sign proclaiming proudly that it is a heritage building, protected by the law and the Archaeological Survey of India. The sign, however, is the only thing intact in the place. Wrought iron work pillars are skewed and missing, the building propped up instead by semi-permanent scaffolding. Plaster work and stone facings have fallen away to reveal the untreated brick, shutters swing from their hinges and pigeons fly in and out of the windows. If the site were ever scheduled for demolition a bulldozer would not be required; a strong sneeze would probably suffice.

The Currency Building’s situation epitomises the problems faced by historic buildings under government control in India. Listed status may well help protect against fly posting and vandalism and provide an injunction against demolition proposals, but if the funds and initiatives are not there to stop the building collapsing of its own accord, what real benefit is there in being listed? If nature is left to take its course, Kolkata will lose her past entirely and be left with nothing but an overcrowded, characterless and dirty concrete jungle.

The solution to the problem seems to lie in private-public partnerships. Just one block away from Dalhousie Square is St. John’s Church, a relic of the late 18th century and one of the oldest buildings still standing in central Kolkata. In 2004 the World Monuments’ Fund listed St. John’s as one of the world’s 100 most endangered sites, prompting American Express to come to the church’s rescue with money for its restoration. The work was finally finished in 2007 and today the tower, clock and columns of St. Johns stand secure and freshly painted, a tribute to Kolkata’s past.

Sunday, 31 July 2011

Kyrgyzstan and Manas: Understanding the bigger picture

The Manas airbase has been an ongoing source of controversy since it first opened in 2001. Just 650 miles from Kabul, Manas may be ideally placed for supplying troops to Afghanistan but its presence was always going to rile Russia, who still sees Kyrgyzstan and her Central Asian neighbours as part of the motherland despite nearly 20 years of nominal independence. Calls in 2006 for the base to close were scotched when the US increased the value of its lease to $63m but this still falls far short of the $200m the Kyrgyz government requested. The disparity in amounts provided former Prime Minister Igor Chudinov with a useful, if not entirely believable, justification for yet another round of pressure on Manas.

The first question we have to ask is why does Kyrgyzstan matter? It is a mountainous, land-locked country with a population of just five million and, unlike its neighbours, it has negligible mineral resources. The economy is supported by contributions from Kyrgyz working abroad and foreign aid agencies, loans from the World Bank and IMF, and the income brought in by the US and Russian airbases. One thing, however, brings Kyrgyzstan to the attention of foreign powers: its geo-political position.

Three main groups have a concern in Kyrgyzstan: the Chinese, the Russians and the US. We’ll briefly look at the nature of, and reasons for, their interest in the country.  Kyrgyzstan borders China’s Xinjiang autonomous province, a region ruled from Beijing but populated by people who include Uighurs, Kazakhs, Tajiks and Kyrgyz. Xinjiang suffers ongoing tension and occasional violent outbreaks, such as the murder of 16 Chinese police officials by separatists in August 2008. Beijing policy is to increase the number of Han Chinese in the region in the hope that it will bring greater control and, as a result, stability. Financial incentives are offered to those moving to, and opening businesses in, Xinjiang and also over the border in Kyrgyzstan. The Chinese are actively purchasing Kyrgyz territory to expand their influence and, most importantly, to acquire alpine lakes and rivers that can be diverted to supply water to desert areas in Xinjiang. The most significant impact of this acquisition for Kyrgyzstan has been that a number of the country’s recently built hydroelectric power stations are not getting the water supplies they require; Bishkek’s power supply is insufficient to provide electricity around the clock.

Direct Russian influence in Kyrgyzstan has been felt since 1876 when the country became part of the Russian Empire. The country was established as a full republic of the USSR in 1936 and only formally declared independence from Moscow in August 1991. The Russians formerly trained all of their air force pilots in Kyrgyzstan and continue to keep an airbase in Bishkek; it’s just 20 miles from Manas. Large numbers of Kyrgyz are employed in Moscow and Russian companies dominate Kyrgyz industry; the Russian-managed Komtor gold mine single-handedly contributes 10% of Kyrgyzstan’s GDP.

Whilst Eastern Europe has fallen sway to the influence of the EU, Central Asia is still a region in which Russia can have an impact. The 2009/10 package of $2 billion in loans and $150 million in aid is as important for the area as a whole as it is for Kyrgyzstan. The loans are to be repaid over a five year period at a rate of 3% above Libor which, although not unfeasible for a developed country, is nigh on impossible when we consider that Kyrgyzstan’s GDP (nominal) in 2007 was just $3.748 billion. Put simply, the Russians are offering a loan they’re confident cannot be repaid. What is more, a large portion of the loan is earmarked for the construction of dams controlling water supply to Uzbekistan. Once the Kyrgyz default on their loan, the dam will come under Russian control. This will require the Uzbeks to play ball with Russia as long as they want continued irrigation for cotton, their greatest agricultural export.

The last of the three major players in Kyrgyzstan is, of course, the US. The Manas airbase is home to 1000 military personnel and serves as the primary hub for air operations in Afghanistan. With the withdrawal of troops from Iraq, the US has a single-point of military focus: Central Asia. Success in Afghanistan, and the prestige which would come from succeeding where the British and Russians have repeatedly failed, will depend on a reliable supply route for men, munitions and other goods. Whilst relations with Iran and Pakistan are a little less than rosy, Kyrgyzstan is the most convenient and stable of the alternatives.

The US also runs a 160-man embassy in Kyrgyzstan – a huge number of representatives considering the size of the population. Across Central Asia the US is running a hearts and minds campaign to counter-balance the influence of Russia, particularly when it comes to the control of gas and oil. While Gazprom has to date directed the supplies of Central Asian gas to Europe through its Caspian pipelines, the US is now backing the EU’s proposal to build the $10.19 billion Nabucco pipeline from Azerbaijan and Turkmenistan, through Turkey and the Balkans to Central Europe. Permission to build the pipeline, not to mention the ability to secure its supply, depends upon convincing local governments to support Europe’s interests over those of Russia. This is no mean feat.

Wednesday, 27 July 2011

An Oriental Obsession: How the tea trade influenced European design

“That excellent, and by all physicians approved, China drink, called by the Chineans Tcha, by other nations Tay, alias Tee, is sold at the Sultaness Head Coffee-House, in Sweeting's Rents… It helpeth the headache, giddiness and heaviness thereof. It removeth the obstructions of the spleen...It prevents and cures agues, surfeits, and fevers by infusing a fit quantity of the leaf; thereby provoking a most gentle vomit and breathing of the pores, and hath been given with wonderful success….It is good for colds, dropsies, and scutvies, and expelleth infection.”                                                     
                                    Advert by Thomas Garraway in the Mercurious Politicus, 1658

When tea arrived in London in the 1650s it was heralded as a miracle cure-all, brought from exotic lands at the far ends of the earth to be the salvation of the English man. What Garraway and his contemporaries could not have anticipated was that their bitter tasting health drink would become an international phenomenon, influencing aspects of life from architecture to technology, dress-making and the decorative arts to theological debate. While a great deal of work has been done on the social impact of tea drinking and its impact on public health, very little has been done on the wider influence of the tea trade on European fashions.

Tea as a commodity is very light so additional cargoes had to be carried as ballast on the ships that brought the tea from Canton and around the Cape of Good Hope to Europe. The most obvious choice was Chinese porcelain which, in the form of tea sets and dinner services, was the perfect accompaniment to shipments of tea. Porcelain was much admired for its strength, fineness and beautiful glazes but the secret of its manufacture was closely guarded by the Chinese. From the time of Marco Polo rumours had abounded of its supposed ingredients – egg shells and bones to name but two – and the techniques required to make it, but it would not be until 1709 that Europeans mastered porcelain making for themselves. In the meantime porcelain, or ‘chinaware’ as it was more commonly called, could only be acquired from direct China.

Chinaware, as with tea, was a great hit amongst society figures in London, Paris and Amsterdam, so much so that in 1659 alone 56,7000 pieces were ordered to be shipped to Holland. European customers had certain expectations for their new Chinese goods: they should be in a supposedly Chinese style but still appealing to European tastes. Chinoiserie was born. Where Chinese factories led the way producing new designs to appeal to the European market, European sprung up in Meissen, Delft, and Stafford, painting their porcelain and similar wares with scenes of an idealised China. The blue and white Willow pattern, inspired by a non-existent Chinese prototype, became an instant hit and made its way into fashionable homes everywhere.

Chinese porcelain and pieces in a Chinese style were considered the height of sophistication and so had to be displayed for all to see. Lacquered cabinets, bamboo dressers and furniture painted with exotic scenes and oriental figures were considered the perfect way to show off chinaware and so, as with the porcelain itself, both the import of Chinese originals and the production of European imitations increased.

Drinking Chinese tea from a Chinese tea set and sat upon supposedly Chinese furniture, it is hardly a surprise that the next step was to be the Chinese room so that one might have the complete, ‘authentic’ Chinese experience. Wallpaper featuring Chinese scenes, not dissimilar to those in the willow pattern, were widely produced, oriental silks hung from the windows and covered furniture, and woodblock prints and watercolours finished off the oriental look. The most famous rooms of this kind still in existence are the Chinese House at Potsdam, and the Brighton Pavilion, the epitome of the Chinoiserie style.

Two factors led the Chinoiserie style to spread outdoors across fashionable parklands and gardens. Firstly, both the wealthy and their garden designers felt an urge to recreate at home the oriental scenes with which they had become so familiar. The pagoda in Kew Gardens is perhaps the most famous example of Chinese buildings being transposed into a very European context although, perhaps more entertaining, is the suggestions of one Sir George Sitwell  that all of the cows on his estate be stencilled with a blue Chinese pattern so that they complement his many garden works and follies. Much to the disappointment of Sir George, the animals in question refused to oblige and he was forced to abandon the scheme. Secondly, unlike coffee, tea was seen to be a drink for all the family. Neither pubs nor coffee houses were fit places for respectable women and children to assemble and so purpose-built tea gardens were built so that tea may be enjoyed in suitable, oriental-themed surroundings. The Vauxhall Tea Garden was opened to the public in the late 17th century and was one of London’s most popular attractions for nearly 200 years. Guests paid a small entrance fee and were treated to concerts, dances and theatrical performances, as well as the perfect environment to socialise.

Whether hosting a tea party at home or visiting a city tea garden, meeting over tea was the perfect opportunity for a society woman to reveal her affluence and taste to her contemporaries. Tea gowns made of chintz – hand-painted Indian calico – were a popular choice, as were oriental-inspired outfits such as silk kimonos. The latter were inevitably accessorised with fans, gloves and chop sticks to complete the look. These eccentric outfits caught the attention of artists such as Monet, Whistler and Degas, who were inspired by the colours and textures of the clothes but also by the exoticism they represented in the East. Whistler’s 1864 painting La Princess du Pays de Porcelaine reveals how fascination with the Orient had become entrenched in Europe’s fine art as well craftsmanship and flights of fancy. 

   
 

Tuesday, 26 July 2011

24 Hours in Kolkata

10.00   Nothing in Kolkata happens early so start your day with the city’s bureaucrats breakfasting on their way to work. The street stalls around the High Court and Dalhousie Square have a fabulous variety of snacks – from samosas and noodles to sickly-sweet ladoos, and while you’re there you can also check out the Town Hall, an exact copy of the one in Ypres.

11.00   Take a walk around the corner to St. John’s Church (Netaji Subhas Road) – a little piece of 18th century London in the heart of the city. The curator is understandably proud of his newly renovated church and its colonial history while the surrounding churchyard has a welcome atmosphere of surprising calm.

12.30   Down by the river grab freshly fried fish from the morning’s catch before taking a boat out on the Hooghly. Kolkata’s colonial past, its mansions and warehouses, will be laid out before you along with evidence of more modern industries. If you’re in luck you may catch a peak of the endangered Ganges River Dolphin or see the immersion of clay statues of gods and demons. 


14.30   A visit to Kolkata could not be complete without an hour or so in the Victoria Memorial, the elaborate white marble edifice that holds sway over the centre of the city. Horse-drawn carriages bedecked in silver foil and flowers transport lovers and tourists alike whilst endless picnics and games of cricket take place on the neighbouring maidan.


16.30   Mid afternoon demands tea at Flurys (Park Street), Kolkata’s most famous patisserie. The chocolate muddy fudge comes highly recommended as does the people watching either side of the sheet glass windows.

17.30   Bengalis live for their food so whet your appetite and head into Jagu Babu Bazaar to see a fascinating array of local produce, fragrant spices in every colour and the largest prawns you’ve ever encountered. The dexterity of the fishmongers is outstanding and, although you may never eat chicken again, the fresh fish displays will have your mouth watering uncontrollably.

19.00   Oh! Calcutta (Forum Mall, Elgin Road) is packed night on night with well-heeled locals and offers up some of the best Bengali food around. Don’t miss the Hilsa, the delicately flavoured white fish that is Kolkata’s undisputed favourite, or the warm, soft breads that accompany it.

21.00   End the night at one of Kolkata’s numerous clubs, drinking G&T and fantasising about bygone days of the British Empire. The Calcutta Club, Bengal Club and Tollygunge Club all have fantastic colonial-era buildings, lively and well-stocked bars and an enthusiastic clientele. Join in the party and stay on until the early hours.

Photos C. Tracing Tea 2008

 

The Price of Tea


The Darjeeling district of West Bengal clings to the southern slopes of the Himalayas, nestled between Nepal, Bangladesh and India. Best known for the 10,000 tonnes of premium grade tea it produces each year, the region is wholly dependent on the tea industry for survival. Tea production comes at a high environmental price, however, and new strategies are required to protect the hillsides, forests and fauna from destruction. Numbers of red pandas, snow leopards, Himalayan black bears, Tibetan wolves, deer, wild dogs and civet are all declining due to deforestation and the encroachment of man.


There are over 90 tea estates in Darjeeling with some 22,000 hectares of land under tea cultivation. Commercial planting began in Darjeeling in 1841 with plants introduced from China, and since then large areas of virgin rainforest have been cleared to expand the tea plantations. Tea can be grown up to 7000 ft and terracing is widely used to maximise space on the hillsides and provide tea pickers with easy access to the bushes. The removal of tree cover and preference for terraced estates would not be such a problem if it were not for the fact that Darjeeling receives an annual rainfall of 110.9 inches. Almost a third of this falls in July alone, taking with it the top soil and causing devastating land slips. Not only does this wipe out fields of tea but also homes, roads and wildlife habitats. The desire to increase cultivation is in fact threatening the very survival of the hillsides that support the tea industry. 


The only way to stem the destruction of habitats in Darjeeling is to take a wider, more ‘holistic’ view of how a tea estate should be run; financial gain cannot be the sole priority if the industry is to survive in Darjeeling long-term. Rajah Banerjee, owner of the Makaibari Tea Estate, is spearheading a new approach to tea production and has made a name for himself across the subcontinent (and further afield) as one of India’s ‘Green Heroes’. Rajah runs Makaibari in accordance with the principles of bio-dynamism, believing that healthy soil, diverse flora and fauna, a satisfied community and high-quality crop production go hand in hand.


When he took control of the estate in the 1970s the first thing that Rajah did was to stop the clearing of trees for the expansion of tea planting. Today 2/3 of the 1574 acre estate is still under virgin rainforest, which provides habitats for wildlife including endangered snow leopards, red pandas and wolves, and helps keep the hillside intact; not a single landslip is visible in Makaibari in stark contrast with neighbouring estates. The rainforest provides a diverse and regular supply of vegetable matters that can be spread as mulch between the tea plants.  The ground between the tea plants is never weeded (a practice known as perma-culture) and so they break down with the added mulch into a compost rich in minerals, it protects the soil underneath from the assault of wind and rain, and it also provides a fertile breeding ground for insects. A giant earthworm unseen for the past 120 years has made its reappearance in Makaibari’s soils, and the Tea Deva, a variant of the Preying Mantis that is camouflaged to accurately imitate a tea leaf, has evolved on the estate. 



Makaibari’s workers, all of whom are stakeholder partners in the estate, are encouraged to take individual responsibility for their environment. Instead of stripping the forests for firewood each family cares for a cow, whose manure is added to biogas converters to provide fuel for cooking and can also be spread on vegetable gardens as fertiliser. Workers are given financial incentives to bring live specimens of rare insects and invertebrates to the attention of management so that they can be examined by experts before re-release back into the estate. This has allowed study to take place of breeding habits, preferred habitats, population numbers and so on. 



Rajah and his workers encourage diversity of organisms at Makaibari by using only organic fertilisers and no pesticides. The estate was the first in Darjeeling to be certified as organic (1988) and since then many others have followed in their tracks, recognising the appeal of organic farming to consumers and also its importance for good environmental practice. The alternative fertilisers used on Makaibari are all recommended in the theories of Rudolf Steiner, an Austrian Philosopher challenged to rejuvenate Europe’s soils after the ravages of WWI. They include cow manure, a not uncommon choice for a natural fertiliser, but also more unconventional products such as ground quartz, oak bark, cow horns and stag bladders. Whatever the theoretical reasons behind their use, on the Makaibari estate this unorthodox approach is certainly paying dividends: a Makaibari white tea has held the world record price for tea sold at auction ever since 2006 and soil samples taken on the estate have shown higher nitrate levels and greater biodiversity than anywhere else in Darjeeling. 



Photos C. Tracing Tea 2008